Yamaha Raptor starter clutch change out

The guts that fell out from inside of the old one way

Another view of the one way

The old 1 way (starter clutch assembly)

Side view of open engine

Side view of the engine and 52 tooth sprocket

The starter motor

The stater magnetic and electrical

Drive shaft and timing chain

My raptor was making a whering noise when i tried to start it. I found out that the part i needed was called a one way starter clutch assembly. $160.00  I’ll just refure to it as a/the 1 way. It goes right behind the fly wheel in fact it screws into the fly wheel.

I tipped my Raptor on its side (i should’ve just dr

52 Tooth sprocket on the drive shaft

ained the oil) so no oil would come out. then I took off all the bolts to the left of  the shifter and the 2 bolts on top  of the engine case that also holds the starter. I had already purchased a fly wheel puller (pulley puller) for $ 10.00 at Harbor freight. I lined up the bolts and matched the threads on the inside of the fly wheel. I put big spacers above the aluminum 3-way puller piece with a big bolt in the center and using a pneumatic tool  and a hammer and a mallet, worked on the fly wheel.

An hour and a half later, or so and alot of gingerly pounding the fly wheel just popped off. It was under so much pressure that it literally popped off the drive shaft. It startled me. Right behind the fly wheel is the 1 way. The old one is silver with black screws and the new one is black with black screws. The silver one with black screws had  one screw that had fallen out and was bouncing around the crankcase and the engine compartment. Another screw was just hand tight probably would’ve fallen off on the next ride. Lucky for me no damage was done from that screw. The screws are steal and the engine and most of it’s parts are aluminum so that couldv’e really been bad.
I undid the rest of the screws on the 1 way that was attached to the back side of the fly wheel and i noticed something in the fly wheel. It was pieces of the inside guts from my old one way and super small metal filings. Also, there was sticky hardened oil residue. I cleaned the fly wheel with carb cleaner.  I did not know this but the fly wheel has a very strong magnet inside of it. I took a picture of the stater that goes opposite the fly wheel and creates electricity using the flywheel magneto (magnet).
In the fly wheel removal process i lost the Woodruff key. The Woodruff key is about the size of the top half of your thumb nail. Its rounded like your thumb nail and it’s maybe 1/8″ to 3/16″ thick and it slides into a grove on the drive shaft for a hard stop on the fly wheel. The first time i lost this key it fell into to the bike on the out side. The second time i lost it was when i was putting it on the drive shaft and it fell into the engine compartment clear down on the opposite side than i was working. I did purchase a new one for $7.50 because there was alot of wear on the old one. It was very small but made out of pure steal. So i couldn’t leave it behind.
I  got a big container and some rags and tipped the bike up (on all 4 wheels). It still made an oily mess and i didn’t see the woodruff key come out in the old oil. So, I let it sit draining over nite.
The next day all the oil was gone and so i looked in below where the trimming chain is, you can see the other side of the engine, and i could see the woodruff key stuck to some clutch plates. It was on the opposite side of where i was working. I had bought a 2′ magnet extender with an LED on the end for $6.50 at Auto Zone and was able to fish that key out of the engine compartment.
Behind the fly wheel and the one way is a 52 tooth starter sprocket that slips off the drive shaft. It had a little bit of marring, but i felt not enough to replace. This sprocket is made out of aluminum but has a brass bushing in it’s center with funky shaped Cris cross veins looks like a mini gutter system with the bottom part copper the rest brass all on the inside. This allows for the oil to stay lubed inside of the sprocket while in use.
The 1 way and the fly wheel are round except for a little groove where it fits around the woodruff key. This proved to be a very ardours task to slide the fly wheel back on the drive shaft. Also the new  1 way had to have its barrings moved outward from center (round) to be wider. The hole where the bearings were had to be bigger. A little powerful spring in the new 1 way compresses the hole around the drive shaft making it imposable to install. This took me hours to figure out.
The only way to accomplish this that i could see was to put the  52 tooth sprocket in to the hole of the new 1 way this fit perfectly. This was made to go together like this. I had  to first put on the Woodruff key,  get someone to hold the gear shift down and the oil/ coolant hose up out of the way and slip it all on as 1 piece. This took about 12 or so trys. So about an hour and a half give or take. This part was extremely complected for me.
When i finally got that done and breathed a sigh of relief, I had a paper/fiberglass gasket to put on then the bolts then button it up and test ride. The fibre  gasket tore but i used it any way (i shouldn’t have ). I matched up the bolts and put it all back to gether and tightened everything down. On Monday I went riding. There is a real close place on  Backus highway and at about maybe 7400so-ish? (If you want to go there and have never been, I’ll help you find it). After 45 minutes of riding,  oil was all over my left shoe, the chain the inside back tire and all over my bike on the left hand side. My fiber gasket was not working. I shouldn’t have  used the broken one.( I know now).
Now i have to go get a new gasket, undo all the bolts,  first tip the raptor on it’s side so the new oil doesn’t leek out, scrape off the old gasket and replace with a new gasket, put everything back together, add oil and test it for about an hour. (Go close riding).
I did get a new gasket $10.00 at Cycle House. I undid the part and scraped it off and put this special silicone on. It is made for cars for when you put the heads back on. I still need to go buy some Yamalube $27.00 per gallon and add about half a gallon and then I’ll be ready for a close riding test. Good luck we’re all counting on me.
Although some of these things have been very difficult for me to try and do, I have enjoyed doing most of them (some parts not so much) and i have learned a ton. I hope you have enjoyed the article and the pictures. If any of you  need further help with this or another project, i would be happy to try to help. Please email me.
OK, have a good one,
mistermeister
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Raptor clutch change out

Mike had links to several sites where I spent several hours of reading. I found out that the part i needed was called a one way starter clutch assembly. $160.00  I’ll just refure to it as a/the 1 way. It goes right behind the fly wheel in fact it screws into the fly wheel.
I tipped my Raptor on its side (i should’ve just drained the oil) so no oil would come out. then I took off all the bolts to the left of  the shifter and the 2 bolts on top  of the engine case that also holds the starter. I had already purchased a fly wheel puller (pulley puller) for $ 10.00 at Harbor freight. I lined up the bolts and matched the threads on the inside of the fly wheel. I put big spacers above the aluminum 3-way puller piece with a big bolt in the center and using a pneumatic tool  and a hammer and a mallet, worked on the fly wheel.
An hour and a half later, or so and alot of gingerly pounding the fly wheel just popped off. It was under so much pressure that it literally popped off the drive shaft. It startled me. Right behind the fly wheel is the 1 way. The old one is silver with black screws and the new one is black with black screws. The silver one with black screws had  one screw that had fallen out and was bouncing around the crankcase and the engine compartment. Another screw was just hand tight probably would’ve fallen off on the next ride. Lucky for me no damage was done from that screw. The screws are steal and the engine and most of it’s parts are aluminum so that couldv’e really been bad.
I undid the rest of the screws on the 1 way that was attached to the back side of the fly wheel and i noticed something in the fly wheel. It was pieces of the inside guts from my old one way and super small metal filings. Also, there was sticky hardened oil residue. I cleaned the fly wheel with carb cleaner.  I did not know this but the fly wheel has a very strong magnet inside of it. I took a picture of the stater that goes opposite the fly wheel and creates electricity using the flywheel magneto (magnet).
In the fly wheel removal process i lost the Woodruff key. The Woodruff key is about the size of the top half of your thumb nail. Its rounded like your thumb nail and it’s maybe 1/8″ to 3/16″ thick and it slides into a grove on the drive shaft for a hard stop on the fly wheel. The first time i lost this key it fell into to the bike on the out side. The second time i lost it was when i was putting it on the drive shaft and it fell into the engine compartment clear down on the opposite side than i was working. I did purchase a new one for $7.50 because there was alot of wear on the old one. It was very small but made out of pure steal. So i couldn’t leave it behind.
I  got a big container and some rags and tipped the bike up (on all 4 wheels). It still made an oily mess and i didn’t see the woodruff key come out in the old oil. So, I let it sit draining over nite.
The next day all the oil was gone and so i looked in below where the trimming chain is, you can see the other side of the engine, and i could see the woodruff key stuck to some clutch plates. It was on the opposite side of where i was working. I had bought a 2′ magnet extender with an LED on the end for $6.50 at Auto Zone and was able to fish that key out of the engine compartment.
Behind the fly wheel and the one way is a 52 tooth starter sprocket that slips off the drive shaft. It had a little bit of marring, but i felt not enough to replace. This sprocket is made out of aluminum but has a brass bushing in it’s center with funky shaped Cris cross veins looks like a mini gutter system with the bottom part copper the rest brass all on the inside. This allows for the oil to stay lubed inside of the sprocket while in use.
The 1 way and the fly wheel are round except for a little groove where it fits around the woodruff key. This proved to be a very ardours task to slide the fly wheel back on the drive shaft. Also the new  1 way had to have its barrings moved outward from center (round) to be wider. The hole where the bearings were had to be bigger. A little powerful spring in the new 1 way compresses the hole around the drive shaft making it imposable to install. This took me hours to figure out.
The only way to accomplish this that i could see was to put the  52 tooth sprocket in to the hole of the new 1 way this fit perfectly. This was made to go together like this. I had  to first put on the Woodruff key,  get someone to hold the gear shift down and the oil/ coolant hose up out of the way and slip it all on as 1 piece. This took about 12 or so trys. So about an hour and a half give or take. This part was extremely complected for me.
When i finally got that done and breathed a sigh of relief, I had a paper/fiberglass gasket to put on then the bolts then button it up and test ride. The fibre  gasket tore but i used it any way (i shouldn’t have ). I matched up the bolts and put it all back to gether and tightened everything down. On Monday I went riding. There is a real close place on  Backus highway and at about maybe 7400so-ish? (If you want to go there and have never been, I’ll help you find it). After 45 minutes of riding,  oil was all over my left shoe, the chain the inside back tire and all over my bike on the left hand side. My fiber gasket was not working. I shouldn’t have  used the broken one.( I know now).
Now i have to go get a new gasket, undo all the bolts,  first tip the raptor on it’s side so the new oil doesn’t leek out, scrape off the old gasket and replace with a new gasket, put everything back together, add oil and test it for about an hour. (Go close riding).
I did get a new gasket $10.00 at Cycle House. I undid the part and scraped it off and put this special silicone on. It is made for cars for when you put the heads back on. I still need to go buy some Yamalube $27.00 per gallon and add about half a gallon and then I’ll be ready for a close riding test. Good luck we’re all counting on me.
Although some of these things have been very difficult for me to try and do, I have enjoyed doing most of them (some parts not so much) and i have learned a ton. I hope you have enjoyed the article and the pictures. If any of you have any need for any of these tools or need help with a project, i would be happy to lend a hand.
I hope I did the picture thing right. If you guys can’t see the pictures or click on them please send me an email and let me know.
OK, have a good one,
Paul
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Hi John, I found it!!

This site is like playing hide- and- go-seek with me

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Raptor

A bird of prey!

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I’m back and ready to crack

Transfer Raptor info

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change raptor clutch

  • clutch

    the

jug

u are gat

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